The first part of our shoemaking process is also one of the most important aspect whereby it acts as the cornerstone of the whole process. If the design is well done, it will result in a shoe with superior fitting to the wearer’s feet and also those that are aesthetically appealing. The process involves sticking masking tapes unto the shoelast which are then carefully transferred to cardboard maintaining the original shape of the shoelast. It is on the cardboard based on this basic shoe shape that the designer puts his idea of the shoe model into a “pattern”, which is a blueprint drawing of every details that the shoe will have.
The resulting “pattern” will then be used to cut upper materials from high quality calf leather accordingly. Accuracy in cutting and knowledge of working around scars or flaws in the leather to maintain good quality standard is only available from highly seasoned workers. Due to the stretch property of calf skin, workers have to carefully place their pattern in the correct alignment in order to maintain the desired shape of the shoe.
The upper materials are then assembled together with glues and stitched neatly using post-bed sewing machines, operated by seasoned workers. Accessories such as buckles, eyelets, or elastics are placed accordingly.
The lasting process involves putting the uppers on top of the intended shoelast and pulling the lasting margin, which is purposeful excess of material on the edge, by hand or assisted by lasting machine unto the bottom of the shoelast. It is then kept in place temporarily using small nails which is later reinforced using glue. This process requires good knowledge and experience in determining the correct placing of the upper and sufficient amount of pulling pressure in order to maintain the shoe’s shape that is intended by the designer. Lastly, after the upper is left to conform to the shoelast’s shape over a day period, the prepared outsole is then attached firmly at the bottom of the shoe.
After taking out the shoelast from the shoe, finishing products and regimens are applied to various part of the shoes, such as wax to the upper and primer to the outsole to bring out their shine. Meticulous inspection is done in the final check to make sure that they are ready to be shipped and worn by our customers.